Outer Banks National Scenic Byway

Leave the mainland behind and come to the most romantic byway in North Carolina -- the Outer Banks Scenic Byway of the barrier islands. Tour its beautiful beaches, thriving wildlife preserves, historic towns, and well-known lighthouses. Travelers make plans to come back even as they leave.

Centered around a rich village culture, the Outer Banks Scenic Byway is a must for any traveler looking to escape to a time of front porch talks and simple maritime living. Explore the Down East community, an up-close look at what life was like before our hectic schedules and tourist-driven cities. The byway’s Down East showcases Outer Banks maritime culture with little impact from current-day tourism. A heritage center built by Down East communities reinforces an experience of place with stories, objects, and exhibits. The pronounced flare to the bow of a Harkers Island fishing vessel is a centuries-old boatbuilding tradition unique to regional waters. North Carolina Folk Heritage Awards in recent years have recognized a boat builder, a decoy carver, and a model boat maker -- all from Down East.

Enjoy grand scenic views of barrier islands bracketed by the Atlantic Ocean and an estuarine system of shallow, fertile sounds on North Carolina’s Outer Banks Scenic Byway. On half of the byway’s 137.8 land miles, visitors view the corridor’s wild side of dunes, marsh, and water in the Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout National Seashores and two national wildlife refuges, Pea Island and Cedar Island. These national seashores and refuges mark the natural element along the byway as special places with beaches, tidal flats, maritime forests, and abundant marine, avian, and terrestrial wildlife.

On the byway’s Hatteras and Ocracoke Islands, a “beach vacation” landscape with outstanding recreation marks eight villages surrounded by national seashore. Historic settlement patterns are visible in ancient live oaks, harbors, old houses, family cemeteries, simple churches, family stores, fish houses, and 19th-century life-saving stations. On Ocracoke and in Down East you’ll hear at least two variations of a “brogue” or dialect, with echoes of 17th- and early 18th-century English speech patterns.

Outer Banks living demands vital knowledge of wildlife, waters, and weather. That knowledge is expressed in rich traditions, building and settlement patterns, occupations, tales, songs, crafts, gardens, remedies, recipes, community events, and place names. Fishing for a living and hunting are keys to this culture that clings to the coastal edge. Working watermen ply the region’s waters from backyard docks, marinas, and public harbors. Pound net stakes are everywhere in the sounds. Waterfowl hunters scan the sky from blinds in marshes and on far-from-land shallow waters and reefs of the sounds.

That village culture is intimately linked to striking natural features and nationally significant historic places along the byway corridor. A collection of the nation’s earliest civil works includes four historic lighthouses and eight early U.S. Life-Saving Service or U.S. Coast Guard stations. Villages developed around lighthouses and life-saving stations where byway heroes are honored. Roadless Cape Lookout National Seashore preserves two uninhabited historic villages to tell the stories of long-ago villages. One is near the diamond-painted Cape Lookout Lighthouse (1859). The other, Portsmouth, preserves life-saving service memories and Revolutionary War shipping stories. Explore these remnants of the past on your trip down the North Carolina coast.

The Outer Banks Scenic Byway’s unique maritime culture references historic events with stories about piracy, war, shipwrecks, and hurricanes. Explore North Carolina today -- the coast is calling.

Planning Your Byway Trip

NOTE: In warmer weather, this byway is a well-traveled road. Plan for extra time to make the ferry connections and to accommodate bicyclists and other travelers. Also, park only in designated places as sand is more difficult to drive out of than ice and snow.

Byway Length: 111 driving miles
Drive time: 5.5 hours including 3.5 hours on two ferries.
Counties: Dare, Hyde and Carteret

From Whalebone Junction in Dare County to Down East in Carteret County, the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway traces North Carolina’s easternmost barrier islands.

The byway travels through dramatic barrier island landscapes, coastal villages and national seashores and refuges. Byway travelers board ferries to cross Hatteras Inlet and Pamlico Sound, the largest sound along the U.S. East Coast and covering more than 1,800 square miles. This productive estuary is visible to the west along many portions of the byway.

The byway presents history that’s ages old, starting with Native American sites and continuing with early exploration, the Civil War and World War episodes. In its coastal waters, shipwrecks tell the maritime history of the continent. The byway’s four historic lighthouses send beacons of light into a sometimes violent Atlantic Ocean.

The byway traverses, from north to south, Bodie (pronounced “body”) Island, Pea Island, Hatteras Island, Ocracoke Island and Cedar Island, which, along with Core Banks, serve to protect the state’s mainland from the Atlantic Ocean’s onslaught. Weather rules the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway. Sometimes, tides come up and the winds blow fiercely, but families have lived along the byway for generations and have great stories to tell.

Dare County: Hatteras Island

The byway starts, in the north, at Whalebone Junction, where U.S. 64-264, U.S. 158 and N.C. 12 come together and at the beginning of the 70-mile long Cape Hatteras National Seashore.

In the early 1930s, Alexander Midgett hauled a 72-foot whale skeleton in the back of his Model T truck up from Pea Island and plunked the skeleton down at the junction, giving the Junction its name. No whalebones survive at the junction. Beginning at Whalebone Junction, follow N.C. 12 South into the Cape Hatteras National Seashore on Bodie Island.

Bodie Island Lighthouse, the first of four byway lighthouses, comes into view on the soundside.

Bodie Island light was built in 1872 to replace a lighthouse destroyed in the Civil War. The lighthouse is 165 feet tall with horizontal black and white stripes. Its light is visible for 19 miles. Across N.C. 12 is Coquina Beach, a swimming beach with bathhouse.

Eleven miles south of Whalebone Junction, the byway crosses over Oregon Inlet into Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge on Hatteras Island.

Oregon Inlet opened in 1846 during a hurricane and was crossed mainly by ferry until 1963 when the Herbert C. Bonner Bridge was opened. Pea Island refuge is managed for migratory waterfowl. Six miles from Oregon Inlet is a refuge visitor center with walking trails, wildlife observation stands and restrooms.

After leaving Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge, continue toward Cape Hatteras through the communities of Rodanthe, Waves and Salvo.

In Rodanthe is the Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station Historic Site. With its two original stations (1874, 1911) and five outbuildings, Chicamacomico (pronounced chik a ma COM i co) is one of the nation’s most complete historic life-saving sites. This historic site is open seasonally for tours.

From Salvo, travel 12 miles through the national seashore to the community of Avon, established in 1873 as Kinnakeet.

From there, drive six miles to Buxton known as “The Cape” until the U.S. Postal Service renamed the village Buxton in 1882. Buxton is the home of the world famous Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.

At 208 feet, the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is the tallest masonry lighthouse in the United States and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Built in 1870, the black and white candy-striped tower stands sentinel over Diamond Shoals and the turbulent collision of the warm Gulf Stream and cold Labrador Current. These dangerous waters caused ships to wreck, giving the area the infamous nickname “the Graveyard of the Atlantic.” The lighthouse is operated by the National Park Service and is seasonally open for climbing.

After passing through Buxton, travel through the community of Frisco, settled in 1795 and journey another six miles in the national seashore to reach the village of Hatteras. Walk the docks in this unique maritime village and visit the restored Hatteras Weather Bureau (1901) or the state’s Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum in this Preserve America Community.

To continue on the byway, take the state’s free ferry across Hatteras Inlet to Ocracoke Island.

The crossing time is about 40 minutes. The present Hatteras Inlet opened in 1846.

Hyde County: Ocracoke Island

Upon arriving on Ocracoke Island, follow N.C. 12 for 13 miles through the national seashore to the village of Ocracoke. Along the way is a pony pasture. The horses that live here are called Banker Ponies, descendants of horses brought by early explorers on ships wrecked in the Atlantic. Ocracoke was first called Wococon in the 1500s (when it was Indian fishing and hunting grounds) and has since gone through a series of names derived from the Algonquian word for “enclosed place.”

The focal point for Ocracoke is Silver Lake, a tidal basin and village harbor.

Howard Street.

Arrayed around the historic harbor are the Ocracoke Fish House and Watermen’s Museum, the Ocracoke Preservation Society’s Museum and a national seashore visitor center along with unique shops. Walkable Ocracoke is a Preserve America Community.

The 75-foot-tall Ocracoke Island Lighthouse, built in 1823, is North Carolina’s only operational lighthouse within a town and one of the oldest operating on the Atlantic Coast. Ocracoke Inlet, once the state’s primary trade inlet, was the site of the death of the notorious pirate Blackbeard, who was killed on Nov. 22, 1718.

From Ocracoke Inlet, take one of two tolled ferry routes. To continue along the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway, take the ferry to Cedar Island in Carteret County;

OR travel the Alligator River State Scenic Byway Route (pg. ***) or Pamlico State Scenic Byway (pg. ***) by taking the ferry to Swan Quarter.

NOTE: Reservations are recommended for both ferries, especially in the summer due to high traffic volume and tight time schedules. More information about reservations, tolls and schedules can be found on www.ncferry.org or by calling 1-800-BYFERRY. The crossing time to Swan Quarter is about 2.5 hours and the crossing time to Cedar Island is about 2 hours and 15 minutes.

Carteret County: Down East

Just after departing for Cedar Island, look to the east. On a clear day, Portsmouth Island may be visible. Settled in the 1700s and incorporated in 1753, Portsmouth for nearly a century was one of North Carolina’s busiest ports of entry and was known at one time as the “shipping capital of the Outer Banks.” The last residents left Portsmouth Island in 1971 but in 1976 the Cape Lookout National Seashore was founded and now manages the village’s historic district. Restored with exhibits are modest houses, a church, post office and school. Visitors reach Portsmouth Island by private ferry from Ocracoke or by private boat.

The ferry docks at Cedar Island and travelers continue south on N.C. 12 through the Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge, a scenic six miles and home to migrating waterfowl. Enjoy spectacular views of salt marshes. N.C. 12 ends and the road becomes U.S. 70 West about 12 miles south of the ferry terminal. The body of water to the left is the Core Sound, named for the Coree Indians who once lived in this area.

Atlantic and Sea Level Loop Extension

To access the Atlantic Loop from the N.C. 12 and U.S. 70 junction, just outside the Cedar Island Wildlife Refuge, turn onto Old Cedar Island Road and follow it to Shell Road, then to School Road. Follow School Road to Seashore Drive to Atlantic Harbor.

This loop includes two maritime villages that give deep meaning to the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway. Old workboats fill the harbor at Atlantic, a community draped in windblown oaks and beautiful homes and a heritage rich in commercial fishing. Sea Level, whose connection to the water surrounding it is told in its name, reflects the story of living with the sea daily.

At the end of Seashore Drive turn around and travel back to U.S. 70.

Loop Length: 9 miles
Driving Time: 20 minutes
County: Carteret

Returning to U.S. 70, travelers will pass through the communities of Stacy and Davis.

Stacy was once home to many of the area’s best known waterfowl carvers, who laid a foundation now documented and celebrated with annual events and a museum featuring this rich Core Sound tradition. [See Core Sound Waterfowl Museum at Harkers Island.] The community of Davis features heritage-based events throughout the year, ferry services to Core Banks and Cape Lookout National Seashore, beautiful homes, growing churches and a community-spirit that makes it one of Down East’s proudest communities. Home of the (almost world famous) “Core Sound Crab Pot Christmas Tree,” makes this a crossroads of small business too. Make plans to stop here for a taste and touch of true Down East creativity and hospitality.

After Davis, travelers will visit Williston before arriving in Smyrna.

Williston, a winding community of old homes along Highway 70, captures the small coastal community way of life with easy views of Core Sound and a rich history of commercial fishing. Smyrna continues to be a major crossroads community for Down East where several small businesses and the recently founded Down East Library, which brings together all the communities of Down East Carteret County through programs and gatherings throughout the year.

Harkers Island, Straits, Gloucester and Marshallberg Loop Extension

To access the Harkers Island, Straits and Gloucester Extension, keep straight if coming from north or turn right if coming from U.S. 70 south, onto Marshallberg Road (SR 1347) to take in water views, working marine communities and boat building.

Marshallberg, three miles from U.S. 70, has a county park at the end of the main road with picnic tables and a wonderful view of Cape Lookout Lighthouse. This community features old homes, signature live oaks and a working community harbor giving a feel for today’s maritime culture that still remains on the land in Down East Carteret County.

To continue the Scenic Byway Loop, follow Marshallberg Road to Star Church Road (SR 1346) -- turn left – to the intersection of Piggott Road (SR 1343) – turn left again – and travel through the community of Gloucester where the road circles back to Straits Road.

The community of Straits, with its own maritime history of seafaring folks, brings travelers to a “triangle, a three-way junction, where travelers should follow Straits Road to Harkers Island Road. Harkers Island Road carries visitors across the Harkers Island Bridge causeway where wildlife viewing, pier fishing, boat launching facilities and public access for swimming are available.

Once on the island, follow Island Road through the community of Harkers Island amidst windswept live oak groves, a trail of island homes and small businesses dedicated to local decoy carving, model boats, fresh seafood and the island’s famed boat building tradition. Many side roads are of interest to visitors as small home-grown businesses and working waterfronts support this community, the largest Down East.

“At the End of the Road,” the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum & Heritage Center celebrates North Carolina’s waterfowling, boatbuilding, commercial fishing and community traditions for all of Down East. The museum and heritage center is located on the left when entering Cape Lookout National Seashore. Here views of Cape Lookout Lighthouse can be seen from the museum’s 4-story tower. Visit with locals to learn more about all the Down East communities located along the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway’s Down East.

Cape Lookout National Seashore’s Harkers Island Visitors Center offers picnic areas and hiking trails connecting the Center to the Core Sound Museum and excellent sites for windsurfing and kayaking.

Inside the Visitors Center, exhibits and the Seashore’s award-winning film “Ribbon of Sand” are offered to visitors wanting to know more about Cape Lookout’s 56-mile undeveloped seashore featuring Cape Lookout Lighthouse.

Cape Lookout Lighthouse, and the historic village, is accessible by private ferry from Harkers Island.

Built in 1859, the Cape Lookout Lighthouse is distinct with its black and white diamond pattern covering the 160-foot tower.

To return to U.S. 70, turn around at the end of Harkers Island Road and follow that road for ten miles to U.S. 70.

Loop Length: 22.5 miles
Driving Time – 45 minutes
Counties: Carteret

On U.S. 70, travel through Otway and Bettie before crossing the North River, the end [or beginning] of the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway.

The communities of Otway and Bettie today provide many of the businesses and transportation needs of the Down East region. These villages’ agriculture heritage can be experienced at several vegetable stands along the highway where local produce and baked goods are welcome treats for travelers.

North River, the expanse of water that demarks the beginning (or end) of the Outer Banks National Scenic Byway, is a working landscape of commercial fishing. The river, home to many species of wildlife, serves as the “welcome” entrance to the rich maritime heritage of Down East communities.